Puppies are cute cuddly and so full of life throughout the infancy stage. It is at this time when puppy training is vital – because believe it or not these cute cuddly small characters can cause so much havoc in the home – with their outbursts of action packed antics all brought on by excitement.

Fun it may be at the time but when you waken to find the remains of a chewed slipper- scratch marks on the furniture and puppy poo to mark the pup`s presence then it is time for an obedience check

How do you go about house training a puppy – simple the same as you would potty train a baby? Yes your right it will take time and patience but all worthwhile in the end.

To be honest the whole process of puppy training can be quite fulfilling as well as fun. There will be times when you may get frustrated throughout the process but just the fact that you have accomplished what others would see as impossible is an achievement in its self. To have an obedient dog standing at the side of its master (you) will make you proud to be the canines owner. Even evening walks are so much more enjoyable with an obedient dog.

You have to reckon about safety for yourself and that of your pooch if they are not trained. Dangers by the roadside and where children are concerned – have to be a couple of vital factors why puppy training is vital.

Puppies need to use the bathroom regular sometimes as much as up to 8 to 10 visits a day – this gradually lessons to about 3 to four times at 30 weeks ancient.

Our small four legged friends are clean animals but still need nurturing with correction lessons teaching them right from incorrect.

If you are going to kennel/crate train the puppy then build the shelter to accommodate the size of the dog to have comfort. Section the kennel in half while the puppy is small and as he/she starts to grow then remove the partition. By not splitting the shelter in two the pup may choose to go to the back of the crate and leave their mark there.

The kennel/crate should be huge enough to permit the dog to stand easily and stretch. As long as the dog can manoeuvre around then that is all that matters.

Timing is crucial when puppy training – have a doggie diary with a schedule of times and adhere to them. Work this pattern around what is best suited for you and your dog.

For example: 10 to 10:30 am. lead the puppy from the enclosure outside and always keep to the same spot every day. The puppy will get used to this allotted space and in time will make his or her own way there. Remember puppies are like babies they need feeding. Times for this is best after the first morning release – approx about 30 minutes. A small later let the puppy out for a friendly romp in the garden for a play without commands.

Leading the puppy from the kennel is an action you have to repeat over and over again at the scheduled times you have logged in your doggie diary.

Before retiring to blanket street take the puppy outside again and let them have a small time to investigate and nosey around – in other words sniffing every nook and cranny.

If you are serious with this practice then the puppy`s needs have to be checked again around 3 am in the morning. It is a excellent thought to have a catchphrase for the pup to relate to. Words like (want to poo poo) will do the trick.

When your puppy is at your side and obeying your commands it is then you will know why that well-known saying came about – EXCELLENT DOGGIE.

Pet-Proof Now…Avoid Problems later

Puppies have a tremendous amount of energy and natural curiosity, and they like to explore the world around them. This is part of what makes them so much fun, but it can also lead them into harmful situations. Before you bring your new puppy home, make sure you survey your home for potential dangers. In many ways, making your home safe for a puppy is similar to making your home safe for a toddler. The following tips are designed to help you keep your puppy safe. Many of the following warnings apply for adult dogs as well:

Indoor Hazards

* Know which plants are toxic and place them out of reach, or replace them with nontoxic plants. Toxic plants commonly found indoors include dieffenbachia, azalea, Calla lily, and philodendron.

* Keep all medications, including any dog supplements, in a safe area the puppy cannot access. Do not leave vitamins or other pills out on the kitchen counter or table. A determined chewer can make small work of a plastic container. Puppies are surprisingly quick at pulling things off of end tables or other low surfaces.

* Place bathroom trash cans up high where your dog cannot get into them. Sanitary supplies and used razors are only two of the hazards here.

* Full sinks, bathtubs, or toilets with open lids can be a drowning hazard. Avoid automatic toilet bowl cleaners if you cannot keep your puppy from drinking out of the toilet.

* Keep cleaning supplies in high cupboards or use childproof latches to secure lower cupboards. Remove the puppy from the area when you are using liquid or spray cleaners. They can get into the eyes of a curious puppy, and the vapors can be harmful to lungs and eyes.

* Be careful of your puppy around furniture. A rocking chair can harm a puppy’s tail or leg, and a curious puppy may crawl under an open recliner or sofa bed.

* Electrical cords are a huge danger to puppies, who often chew on them while playing. This can cause burns in the mouth, electrical shock, or death by electrocution. Tie up loose electrical cords and keep them out of sight. Run cords through bought spiral cable wrap, cord concealers, or even PVC pipe to keep them safe from your puppy.

* Any type of fire can be perilous. Screen off fireplaces and wood stoves. Never leave your puppy unattended in a room with an open flame or space heater.

* Cords for drapery and blinds can cause strangulation. Either tie up the excess cords, or cut the loop in the cord.

* Swallowed clothing may cause a perilous intestinal blockage. Keep socks, nylons, underwear, and other clothing place away. Keep laundry baskets off the floor.

* Keep small objects (coins, jewelry, needles and thread, straight pins, yarn, dental floss, rubber bands, paper clips, toys, etc.) out of your puppy’s reach. Jewelry and coins are easily swallowed and can contain metals that are toxic. Keep costly items and those of sentimental value place away until your puppy is older and less likely to chew. Provide an assortment of chew toys that are appropriate for your puppy’s chewing instinct.

* Keep fishing line, hooks, and lures stored out of reach.

* Be careful about closing doors as you walk through – your puppy may be right behind you and get caught.

* Keep doors and windows closed. Keep screens on windows and sliding glass doors securely fastened and in excellent repair, to keep your puppy from falling through or escaping.

* Close off stairwells with a pet gate.

* Many dogs will eat cat feces from the litter box if given the chance. In addition to being a disgusting (at least to us!) habit, this can be a perilous health hazard. Cat litter can cause an intestinal obstruction, and in addition, any intestinal worms the cat has may be passed on to the dog. One solution may be to place the litter box behind a pet gate, either in a separate room or in a closet with the gate across the doorway. The gate can be raised up from the floor to allow the cat to go under it, unless the dog is able to go under it also. If the cat cannot jump over the gate easily, a stepstool beside the gate can help.

* Many human foods can cause problems for pets. Chocolate, onions, alcohol, and foods high in stout, sugar, or salt can be very harmful. Chocolate, coffee, and tea all contain perilous components called “xanthines,” which cause nervous system or urinary system hurt and heart muscle stimulation. Problems from ingestion of chocolate range from diarrhea to seizures and death. All chocolate, fudge, and other candy should be placed out of your dog’s reach. Grapes and raisins contain an unknown toxin, which can hurt the kidneys.

* Tobacco products, including nicotine gum and patches, contain substances that can be toxic or fatal to dogs.

* Chicken bones, plastic food wrap, coffee grounds, meat trimmings, the string from a roast – all pose a potential hazard. Scraps from ham or other foods high in stout can cause vomiting and diarrhea, or pancreatitis. To be safe, place food away immediately, dog-proof your garbage, and do not feed table scraps to your dog. Uncooked meat, fish, and poultry can contain disease-causing bacteria, such as E. coli, and parasites, such as Toxoplasma gondii. These uncooked foods should not be given to your dog. For your own health, as well as your pet’s, wash utensils that have been in contact with raw meat, and cook meat thoroughly.

Outdoor Hazards

* Do not leave your puppy outside unsupervised. To prevent your puppy from wandering, you will need to either build an outdoor kennel or provide secure fencing that your puppy cannot jump over or dig under.

* Provide your puppy a separate area of your yard to use as his bathroom area. Use fencing, or other means, to keep him out of areas where children may play, especially sand boxes.

* Some outdoor plants and trees can be toxic to dogs. Common ones include potato (all green parts), morning glory, foxglove, lily of the valley, and oak (buds and acorns). Many bulb plants, such as daffodils, are also poisonous. Cocoa bean mulch can be toxic to dogs. Some dogs chew and swallow landscaping stone, which can cause perilous intestinal blockage.

* Make sure all gasoline, oil, paint, lawn fertilizers, insecticides, and auto supplies are placed into secure containers, out of reach. Be especially careful with antifreeze and rat poison, both of which taste excellent to dogs and both of which can be deadly if ingested.

* Pools, ponds, and hot tubs should be covered or fenced off. Drainpipes can also pose problems.

* Fire rings, barbecues, and other heat or fire sources pose the potential of causing burns.

* Keep all food and other garbage in securely closed containers. Used coffee grounds can contain harmful amounts of caffeine, and decomposing food may contain toxic molds. Keep compost in a secure bin.

* Walk around your property and look for other areas or items that could be a hazard to your puppy, such as broken glass, exposed nails, or other sharp objects. Plot how you will restrict your puppy’s access to these areas.

Bringing home a new puppy is a time of fun and excitement. Following these tips and investing in a few key pet supplies will help you keep your new friend safe, so that the two of you can delight in each other’s company for years to come.

Human beings are bound by certain social rules and etiquettes. Dogs are too, but, their rules are entirely different from our rules. For example, it is rare that one person meets another person and within seconds starts a violent fight. This behavior, but, is very common with our canine friends. Introducing two dogs in public is an art and an exercise in training and control. You must be prepared if you are going to avoid not only dog fights, but if you are to steer clear of dog illnesses and other problems when introducing two dogs.

When I have my dogs in public the first rule I live by is ‘assume the worst’. What I mean by this is that I assume that most other dogs out there are ill-behaved and not dog friendly. I know this sounds extreme and perhaps rude but honestly, am I that far off? If you assume this position you will be right a majority of the time. Most dogs in public are poorly trained and poorly socialized and shouldn’t be counted on to automatically get along with your dog.

So how do you go about introducing two dogs with such assumptions? The small answer is, I don’t. When I am in public, generally speaking, I keep my dogs separate from other dogs I encounter. Do I know if the approaching dog is current with his shots, do I know if the other dog is dog aggressive? The answer is no. Why would I introduce my dog into such an unknown situation where he could get injured from a fight or sick from an illness?

The next assumption I typically make is ‘assume the other dog owner knows nothing about dogs’. When I approach another dog owner on the street or in a park I often find that they are keen to have their dog meet both my dog and me. I often hear comforting words such as, “Oh, he’s fine with other dogs,” or, “It’s ok, he’s friendly.” Well the truth is that maybe their dog has been friendly with a few dogs but who is to say that their dog will be friendly with my dog? I was once walking with a client and their dog down a path in the woods when along came a gorgeous Airedale Terrier. As we approached the owner of the terrier called out, “He’s friendly!” following which the dog immediately proceeded to lunge at the leash while barking quite aggressively, obviously looking for a fight. Both I and my client’s dog barely missed being bit as the other owner was nearly pulled over. Ever since this experience, and many similar ones, I have realized that I can’t trust the judgment of other dog owners.

As a result of this style of thinking I religiously avoid dog parks. They are the bane of the dog world and should be avoided at all costs. They are a recipe for disease and fighting. You would be wise to avoid these settings.

Am I being too much of an extremist? No, I don’t reckon so. In doing this I am nearly guaranteeing a safe outing everywhere I go. You may be asking, “But what about socialization? Shouldn’t my dog learn to get along with other dogs?” The answer is yes, but only under controlled settings.

I am very careful about the children that my young daughter meets. I try to avoid having her meet kids who are bullies or sick. Why wouldn’t I do the same for my dog? Whenever I allow my dogs to meet new dogs I do so only when the situation is controlled.

So what is a controlled situation? It could be a variety of settings, but typically a controlled situation is one where I am familiar with the other dog owner, familiar with the other dog and feel that said owner can control said dog. A controlled situation finds both dogs on leash and under control. When introducing two dogs I am always confident that I can control my dog so I need to make sure I partner up with someone else who can also control their dog. With all of these ducks in a row I am ready to introduce my dog to the other dog.

As I said, both dogs are on leash so the first step is allowing the other dogs to be near each other to see initial reactions. I will have my dog about 10 feet from the other dog. If either of the two starts to show aggression I know that maybe this is not a potential friendship. If they are okay at this distance I proceed. One dog remains stationary, preferably in the ‘sit’ command, while the other dog is walked by at a distance of 5-6 feet. The moving dog is then questioned to sit while the other walks 5-6 away. Everybody still okay? Excellent, let’s keep going. Now I place my dog in the heel position on my left hand side while the other owner puts her dog on her left hand side. From here we walk past each other head on. By walking head on with our dogs on our left hand sides and under control the dogs are still separated by our bodies and still haven’t come in contact with each other. At this point, but, each dog has seen the other from a variety of angles and from a variety of potentially threatening and non-threatening positions. If they are still okay you can keep going. Obviously if they have shown aggression at any point you should stop the session.

The next step is the actual introduction. Each owner should approach the other, each dog should be preferably in the heel position. At about 3-4 feet from each other the owners should have their dogs sit by their sides. If everyone is still all right the owners should release the dogs from the sit position and slowly allow the dogs to start sniffing. After a few seconds each owner leads his or her dog away from each other and walks in the opposite direction. Do a U-turn and return to each others proximity. Come back to a halt again 3-4 feet away from each other and repeat the process. Do this several times, each time allowing the dogs to sniff each other for a bit longer period. At this stage it is vital to look for tell-tale signs. If the hair on the back of one dog goes straight up lead that dog away and go even slower with the introductions. Watch for other signs such as the lips being lifted, growling, or other very tense behavior.

It is vital to keep your dogs on leash. If a fight were to break out both owners could immediately drag each dog apart from each other. If when you introduce two dogs like this and everyone is still okay you can gradually give the dogs more and more freedom and allow them to play even more.

As with all dog training, use common sense. Watch for signs in your dog. Introducing two dogs can be fun, but you must always exercise caution.

Everyone that owns a dog needs to know about the different ways that you can properly train your dog and teach them to be very well behaved, which they are really capable of doing. In this article I want to discuss with you some of the vital information regarding dog training techniques that can and will eventually help you to teach your dog. There are many different dog training schools where you could take your dog, so do not worry about things, you will have several different options to choose from. Some of these dog training schools are very expensive, so you should be well prepared to take care of these expenses in order to have your dog professionally trained. Each of these dog training schools all have pretty much the same thing in mind, high hopes of properly and efficiently training your pooch, but, they do all have their own small speciality training, depending on what your specific needs are for your dog and ofcourse it also depends on the age of your dog as well.

Most of the dog training courses usually last up to about ten weeks atleast, except for the training of puppies, they normally only would go to puppy training school, which is kind of like a preschool for dogs, for about up to six weeks. Generally at the end of any of the dog training courses there will also be some type of dog training test that your dog will really be required to pass before they can “graduate” dog training school. These types of tests are certainly pretty complicated and in order for your dog to really pass this type of test they will really need to be adequately, professionally trained in several other dog training courses. Once your dog has gone through several weeks of really tough training, and have also passed the last and final dog training tests, your dog will then be able to come back home and show off all of his new found structure and training skills, among many other things as well. You will be more than pleased by the results of the dog training school that you had sent them through and they will be so confident and proud of themselves and willing to show off in front of company constantly.

Dog training schools can certainly change your dogs entire persona, as well as giving the owner a tremendous feeling of happiness and thankfulness that they dog training school had it in them to really pull this off. It will really be worth any amount of money spent and the results will seriously blow your mind, each and every time that you get to witness their wonderful, well trained behavior. The internet, along with talking to dog training professionals, is a fantastic way to get information that is quite helpful, as well as getting so much helpful information regarding dog training, that can and will really help you out.

It is widely believed that any given breed of dog is born with a strong genetic predisposition to behaviorisms characteristic of that breed. Thus it should follow that the livestock herding and guarding dog breeds, of which the various sheepdogs and shepherds are excellent examples, must be born with an inherent tendency to guard or herd livestock. Also in the same vein it should also follow that gundogs must have a natural propensity to tolerate loud noises such as gun shots or rifle reports. But, as so often happens, things are not quite so simple!

The Critical Period

The critical period of socialization is that time when a certain set or patterns of genetically oriented behavior must be performed or presented to a developing animal (in this case a puppy) in order for such behavior to manifest in the animal when it is older. The inability to initiate such genetically programmed behavior during the critical period can result in the complete corruption of hereditary behavior characteristic to that particular species of animal. The critical period in dogs varies for the different dog breeds, but as a species in general, the critical period of socialization in dogs extends from 2 weeks to 16 weeks. After sixteen weeks if a puppy has not been properly socialized in the desired manner, that dog will not exhibit appropriate behavior in the future!

For example, in certain species of birds, unless the parents sing the specific birdsong for attracting a mate to the growing chicks within the critical period, those birds will never be able to attract a mate when older for the simple fact that they are unable to reproduce the necessary mating call (birdsong).

Imprinting

One of the more significant factors of the critical period of socialization is that known as imprinting. Imprinting is the process whereby a young animal gets to self-identify as a species; in other words imprinting is the process during the socialization period when the young animal gets to align itself with a particular species. Normally in most cases the species with which a young animal identifies usually happens to be the species to which the animal really belongs. But rarely in the wild, cases do occur where an animal imprints on an entirely different species altogether and ultimately identifies with that species as being its own.

Cases of artificial or manipulated imprinting abound in domesticated animals, and one of the most celebrated cases of imprinting manipulation was that conducted by Austrian ethologist Konrad Zacharias Lorenz who was awarded a Nobel Prize for his efforts. Using graylag geese Konrad Lorenz definitively illustrated the significance of the primary period of socialization by getting graylag goslings to imprint on him as opposed to their mother. The result was that the goslings identified with Lorenz and not with geese which resulted in the rather novel situation whereby Lorenz was trailed by his flock of young goslings wherever he went.

Okay, you may be thinking what has some dude with a bunch of geese following him have to do with you and your pet dog? If you’re thinking along such lines those are valid thoughts indeed, so let me illustrate some of the practical applications of imprinting manipulation conducted in dogs.

Imprinting Manipulation In Dogs

Over the span of many generations, shepherds have routinely manipulated the process of imprinting in their livestock guarding dogs. The shepherd introduces the future livestock guardian dog as a puppy to the appropriate target animal which for simplicity reasons in this case will be the sheep. At its most extreme, this imprinting manipulation may be stimulated by getting the puppies to suckle from a pregnant ewe. More routinely though, the dogs are removed as young puppies and reared with the sheep but not necessarily suckled by sheep.

Contact and socialization with people is kept to a minimum as is that with other dogs excepting those littermates that are destined for the same vocation. The dogs are fed in the presence of sheep, sleep with the sheep, socialize and communicate with the sheep and age permitting allowed to follow the sheep about during their grazing. By the time sixteen weeks are up that dog(s) will now identify with sheep as its primary social companions; not dogs…not people! In essence that dog will take appropriate protective measures to ensure that no harm befalls the sheep, even against human beings.

Problematic Dogs

Have you ever encountered a dog that just doesn’t get on with other dogs, strangers or with any animal for that matter? Such a dog is that way because it was never properly socialized within the timeframe of the critical period of socialization. Before I continue along this thread but there’s a point I wish to stress here. Because of years of selective breeding, certain dog breeds are naturally predisposed to exhibiting specific behavior and mannerisms that are hereditary in nature. Thus for example, the retriever breed of dogs will have a natural and inherent tendency to retrieve whether or not such behavior is encouraged during the critical period of socialization.

Certain breeds of dog are natural water lovers for the mere fact that over the years of selective breeding such a trait has been greatly magnified. Such dogs will, in appropriate circumstances, exhibit those inherited traits whether or not they were performed when the dog was still a puppy.

When I was a kid we had a Labrador mix dog that once trailed us to the campus swimming pool. One moment my siblings and I were happily splashing about in the pool with the other kids, next thing…we heard shouting and yelling and a right ole ruckus. We soon knew why. Our Labrador mix, named Nip, had followed us to the swimming pool and saw absolutely no reason why he shouldn’t join us (his primary social companions) in the pool for a dip. Nip was about 7 months at the time and other than his bath times (which he detested) he had never been introduced to water nor had he ever shown any particular affiliation for it. Yet on that day, there he was doggy paddling towards us in the pool like a pro, as if for all the world that was what he had been destined to do!

The point I’m making here is that certain traits in certain breeds of dog cannot be really switched off for the fact they have been exaggerated through selective breeding over the span of multiple generations and in appropriate conditions those traits will manifest!

Take the case of the so-called perilous dog breeds, of which perhaps the Pitbull and the Rottweiler spring foremost to mind. There is an element of truth warranting the perilous-dog moniker for these dogs for the simple reason that some unethical dog breeders have selectively bred their dogs for the aggressive trait. Why? So their dogs may be more vicious and efficient fighters in the dog pit! Like the case of my dog Nip, in certain circumstances those inherited aggressive traits may one day manifest seemingly out of nowhere.

Why You Should Socialize Your Dog Early On

Whether or not your dog is going to be an apartment dweller or an animal living on a farm, it is vital to socialize your dog within the critical period. This is especially right for apartment dwelling dogs that live in the city because they are routinely going to rub shoulders with other dogs, other animals as well as people. Obviously if you wish to avoid having to pay out hefty fees and penalties (and perhaps seeing your dog be place down) because your anti-social pet keeps attacking other pets and people, then it is of vital importance to take the appropriate measures to see that your dog is properly and timely socialized.

If your dog is to co-exist with other animals in the household such as a cat, then for purposes of a harmonious coexistence, that dog as a puppy, should be introduced early on to the other animal whereby it will regard that animal as a social companion and not as prey or foe. Early socialization of one’s dog has both subtle and in-your-face manifestations. The subtle manifestations could be the difference between a confident and outward-going dog to one that is shy and unusually submissive. I’ve already discussed some of the overt (in-your-face) manifestations of socialization which include identification of social companions and getting along with others.

Many dog breeders have also noticed that early handling and petting of very young puppies appears to boost the confidence and friendliness level of the animal when it matures into an adult dog.

Dog Breeds

Havanese puppies are sweet and lovable. But they do require a lot of time and training, so potential owners should make sure they are able to provide for a pup before taking the plunge. In the end, the time and effort it takes to raise a Havanese puppy is worth it. Completely caring for a Havanese puppy requires a flexible schedule, something that many busy families don’t have. The aspects of Havanese puppy care, which include grooming, training, and exercising, might seem overwhelming at first. But, the end result makes up for all work involved. Though Havanese puppies make fantastic family pets, it is vital to consider whether or not a Havanese pup is conducive with a busy family lifestyle. These puppies require time and devotion from a loving family, and they have the potential to enrich the lives of the family members as well.

Havanese puppies make a fantastic addition to any family. Perhaps one of the most well loved aspects of these toy dogs is their size. They have bought a large fan base among families with young children. Also, Havanese pups get along extremely well with other animals, making them a fantastic choice for families who already have dogs or cats.

Havanese puppies are sweet and lovable dogs. Though they are intelligent and keen to satisfy, the care of Havanese puppies can be somewhat hard. There are many elements of raising a Havanese puppy, and they all require time and patience on behalf of the owner. Before adopting a Havanese puppy, make sure that you are willing to devote the time needed to take care of it. If you have the means to provide and care for a Havanese puppy, and you are willing to place time into training, your reward will be a constant companion who you can truly call your best friend.

Despite their loving and sweet personalities, many people shy away from adopting Havanese puppies. This is because Havanese puppies tend to require a lot of training. Compared to many other dogs, they are somewhat hard to housebreak. Because these small dogs have relatively small bladders, potty training them is one of the first trials a new Havanese puppy owner will face. Yet, with patience, this is a simple milestone to overcome. Another problem that Havanese puppy owners run into is grooming. Because Havanese pups do not shed, part of Havanese puppy care includes an occasional haircut.

Finally, exercise is another aspect of raising a Havanese pup that some might consider an inconvenience. The energetic and playful personalities of these dogs require a daily walk, unless they have a fenced in backyard to play around in all day. With the proper care and training, a Havanese puppy will grow up to be obedient and affectionate.

For families looking to adopt a Havanese puppy, their first step should be to consider what would be required of them as pet owners. Havanese pups can be high-maintenance, and their care is no simple task. Raising Havanese puppies requires both time and effort on the owner’s part-and many busy moms and dads don’t have the time to give. Additionally, it is vital to make sure that you can provide for your pet-so there is a monetary commitment as well.

After assessing the commitment you will need to make in order to own a Havanese puppy, potential owners should next look at their own life styles. Is it possible to incorporate a new puppy into your life? For many blossoming families, the answer is “no.” Those who determine that they can like and raise a Havanese puppy are in for a rewarding experience. These sweet, affectionate pets will like you right back!

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Sleepypod Air is a revolutionary carrier that redefines in-cabin pet travel. Air adapts to the various under-seat storage requirements set by different airlines while providing maximum comfort for your jet set pet. Worrying about buying a carrier that will not fit under a plane seat is a thing of the past. Our patent pending folding system allows pets to travel in the largest space possible while the airplane is in the air, yet still allows for stowage under an airline seat during takeoff and landing. When the captain says you can recline your seat, rotate the Sleepypod Air so it is between your feet and expand the ends so both you and your small friend can stretch out comfortably for the duration of the flight. In-cabin pet travel has never been so comfortable. Straps on both sides allow you to secure the Sleepypod Air in your car. A pass through pocket allows you to secure the Sleepypod Air to the telescoping handle on carry-on luggage.

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You have just bought a gorgeous new Shih Tzu Puppy, and you want to make sure that the puppy gets used to your home in the least stressful way possible. So, the first thing that you need to do is make sure that you can dedicate a corner of a room entirely to the dog. There you can place a puppy playpen area, so that not only does your Shih Tzu puppy have his own small area, but it will be simpler for you to housebreak him. This is because Shih Tzu puppies do not like to go to the bathroom where they sleep.

As for where you should set up this area for the dog, an ideal place is one that does not have any carpeting. Thus, a corner of the kitchen would be a excellent thought, since if the floors are tiled you can clean up any messes quickly.

Some new Shih Tzu puppy owners might become stressed out at the prospect of trying to figure out how large the size of the play corner should be. But, it all is self-explanatory, because the play corner should be able to fit in to everyone’s living space comfortably.

Shih Tzu puppies like soft and cuddly beds. So, make sure that, along with food and water, a comfortable bed is also among the first things that the puppy sees when introduced to its new home. Of course, keep in mind that the puppy corner is not meant to be the puppy’s permanent home.

Indeed, a puppy should be given the full run of the house once it is housebroken. But, the playpen will always come in handy as a source of security for the puppy. So, once the puppy has been housebroken, keep the playpen area available so that whenever the dog feels the need for its own space, it always has its own area.

When you reckon about what you would want in your play area if you were a Shih Tzu puppy, you would probably want food, water, and a comfortable bed. While those are the basic necessities, they are also just one part of what will make things enjoyable for your Shih Tzu puppy. The other thing that a Shih Tzu puppy should have is toys of course! But, some owners, in an effort to get as many toys as possible, also end up selecting toys that are unsafe. Specifically, there are some toys available that might look fun, but also can easily be torn apart and choked upon.

Another thing that you will need to start working on is getting the Shih Tzu puppy housebroken. The sooner you get the puppy used to going to the bathroom outdoors, the sooner the puppy will be able to have the run of the house. So, make sure that you take your Puppy to a professional, or train your puppy yourself with plenty of like and patience.

And then, of course, is the choosing of your new puppy’s name. Be creative and select something based on the puppy’s personality. Or select a name that has a special meaning to you.